Thursday 25 September 2014
Liku Liku
We are still at Liku Liku . Another hot day. I spent part of the morning swimming under Katipo scraping off the early weed growth and the occasional barnacle from below the waterline . Not much wind and now and again a yacht motors past to one of the other small islands locally, or a helicopter or small float plane goes by taking holiday makers to some of the more exxotic locations and resorts.
We stocked up on plenty of fruit in Nadi and are feasting on mangoes, pineapples and bananas, although the bananas tend to ripen quickly then go off!
I will send the next blog after the weekend as we are just pottering about the local anchorages at the moment.
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We stocked up on plenty of fruit in Nadi and are feasting on mangoes, pineapples and bananas, although the bananas tend to ripen quickly then go off!
I will send the next blog after the weekend as we are just pottering about the local anchorages at the moment.
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Wednesday 24 September 2014
Brief update
Yesterday we were well sheltered from the increasing SE wind but not in the night when the wind backed to the East causing a rolling unpleasant swell to come in through the reef pass. So we have decided to move on round Malolo to Liku liku bay again. It is pleasant here, the water is clear and it is generally well sheltered.
So it was a short slow sail close along the coast, but very relaxing.
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So it was a short slow sail close along the coast, but very relaxing.
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Tuesday 23 September 2014
to Malolo lailai
Coordinates: 17 45.567S 177 12.025 E
We were up early this morning and left Denerau harbour with a fresh beam wind and were at anchor in Solevu Bay on the NE side of Malolo lailai island by 9.45 am
The last few days in Denerau have been good fun, and we had some beers yesterday with the owner of a Wharram Tiki 46 catamaran called Grazia which he had built and sailed from South Africa.
We hope it was not too much of a shock for Tim and Joce arriving home in cold wet NZ.
We restocked Katipo with fruit and vegetables yesterday in Nadi and I even went to the barbers and had an exceptionally short haircut ( but not the beard of course , despite calls for this from the background from Denise )
We can look from the deck of Katipo across an isthmus to Musket cove on the western side where the harbour bristles with masts , all the boats being jammed close together. On the other hand we have this bay to ourselves !
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We were up early this morning and left Denerau harbour with a fresh beam wind and were at anchor in Solevu Bay on the NE side of Malolo lailai island by 9.45 am
The last few days in Denerau have been good fun, and we had some beers yesterday with the owner of a Wharram Tiki 46 catamaran called Grazia which he had built and sailed from South Africa.
We hope it was not too much of a shock for Tim and Joce arriving home in cold wet NZ.
We restocked Katipo with fruit and vegetables yesterday in Nadi and I even went to the barbers and had an exceptionally short haircut ( but not the beard of course , despite calls for this from the background from Denise )
We can look from the deck of Katipo across an isthmus to Musket cove on the western side where the harbour bristles with masts , all the boats being jammed close together. On the other hand we have this bay to ourselves !
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Saturday 20 September 2014
Denerau
Today Tim and Joce left Katipo to fly back to Auckland, it seems suddenly quiet on board. We had a lot of fun and laughs, not to mention fierce competition on the Scrabble board over a few drinks in the evenings sometimes !
So today more catching up with chores and minor maintenance. We will post another blog on Tuesday when we start sailing again.
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So today more catching up with chores and minor maintenance. We will post another blog on Tuesday when we start sailing again.
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Friday 19 September 2014
Denerau
We have had an excellent day . We left Musket Cove fairly early as soon as we could clearly see the coral reefs ( we heard that 15 boats this year have hit coral reefs around the Musket Cove area !) and with a light wind start we were able to set the furling reacher which is a large red light weather foresail which gave a comfortable 7 knots at times and we were soon over to Denerau and onto our booked mooring. Tim was pleased as he had not seen the reacher in use and he took the helm. Most of the time he has been on board during this trip we have had no wind or head winds !
Tim and Joce fly back to Auckland tomorrow, it has been great to have them on board for the last couple of weeks.
Denise and I will be busy stocking up with water , diesel and food for the next couple of weeks. Denise has been busy arranging our voting papers via the internet for the NZ election !
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Tim and Joce fly back to Auckland tomorrow, it has been great to have them on board for the last couple of weeks.
Denise and I will be busy stocking up with water , diesel and food for the next couple of weeks. Denise has been busy arranging our voting papers via the internet for the NZ election !
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Thursday 18 September 2014
Musket Cove
Coordinates: 17 46.245 S 177 11.39E
5.10 pm just arrived back at Katipo. Sorry we did not send out a message yesterday, we had motor sailed ( ominous noise has gone now ! ) down the west coast of Malolo Island to Musket Cove and were ashore all afternoon and evening. This is one of the main centres for cruising sailors in Fiji and is a pleasant spot with anchoring space or moorings available. It is adjacent to some main resorts around the this side of Malolo. We all had a great meal together ashore last night at Lomani Resort. Today Tim and Joce had some diving instruction and this afternoon went diving at one of the off lying reefs. They had a great time.
We are moored two boats away from another larger NZ Wharram catamaran called Coromandel, which is now based in Fiji most of the time. Don the owner is an old friend so it was good to catch up and hear some of his sailing yarns!
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5.10 pm just arrived back at Katipo. Sorry we did not send out a message yesterday, we had motor sailed ( ominous noise has gone now ! ) down the west coast of Malolo Island to Musket Cove and were ashore all afternoon and evening. This is one of the main centres for cruising sailors in Fiji and is a pleasant spot with anchoring space or moorings available. It is adjacent to some main resorts around the this side of Malolo. We all had a great meal together ashore last night at Lomani Resort. Today Tim and Joce had some diving instruction and this afternoon went diving at one of the off lying reefs. They had a great time.
We are moored two boats away from another larger NZ Wharram catamaran called Coromandel, which is now based in Fiji most of the time. Don the owner is an old friend so it was good to catch up and hear some of his sailing yarns!
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Tuesday 16 September 2014
Back to Liku Liku bay Malolo Island and the ominous knocking noise
A pleasant sail to windward back to Malolo Island . At one point the wind left us becalmed and we started the engine.
The noise and vibration from the drive shaft, which had been a concern for a while, seemed worse and we crept along really slowly winding our way around the reefs.
After we had anchored , swam and had lunch Tim and I made a thorough investigation under the centre deck where the drive shaft is suspended while we sail. The shaft is fixed at one end to a car universal joint so that it can be lowered down when we wish to motor. By lying on our backs in the dinghy we can slide underneath to check things. The only snag is when speed boats zoom by and the wash can raise the dinghy suddenly doing one a mischief.
To my relief I found two marginally loose bolts which we tightened and hopefully will solve the problem. Its tough cruising, always something to fix!
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The noise and vibration from the drive shaft, which had been a concern for a while, seemed worse and we crept along really slowly winding our way around the reefs.
After we had anchored , swam and had lunch Tim and I made a thorough investigation under the centre deck where the drive shaft is suspended while we sail. The shaft is fixed at one end to a car universal joint so that it can be lowered down when we wish to motor. By lying on our backs in the dinghy we can slide underneath to check things. The only snag is when speed boats zoom by and the wash can raise the dinghy suddenly doing one a mischief.
To my relief I found two marginally loose bolts which we tightened and hopefully will solve the problem. Its tough cruising, always something to fix!
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Monday 15 September 2014
Vanuya Island
Coordinates: 17 35.407 S 177 03.68E
all is well . We left Navadra this morning starting to work our was south as Tim and Joce fly to NZ at the end of the week.
As seems often the case there was a steadily building SE to SSE wind todays - just what we did not want as we were sailing to windward . As we approached Vanuya it was gusting 30 knots but we found a fairly sheltered bay on the NW side where we are now anchored. We caught a fair sized Trevally fish on out trolling line about two hours ago.
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all is well . We left Navadra this morning starting to work our was south as Tim and Joce fly to NZ at the end of the week.
As seems often the case there was a steadily building SE to SSE wind todays - just what we did not want as we were sailing to windward . As we approached Vanuya it was gusting 30 knots but we found a fairly sheltered bay on the NW side where we are now anchored. We caught a fair sized Trevally fish on out trolling line about two hours ago.
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Sunday 14 September 2014
Brief update
All well. We liked Navadra so much we decided to stay another day, and have been busy swimming, snorkeling and exploring the island. There are wild goats here. Also repaired a small crack in the bottom of our fibreglass dinghy , the epoxy sets real quickly in the heat here !
Last night it rained heavily , in fact the first time since we have been in Fiji, and with the rain came winds peaking at 30 knots and swinging round meaning we were then on a lee shore. It always seems to happen on black nights and that is when you hope your anchor holds well !
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Last night it rained heavily , in fact the first time since we have been in Fiji, and with the rain came winds peaking at 30 knots and swinging round meaning we were then on a lee shore. It always seems to happen on black nights and that is when you hope your anchor holds well !
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Saturday 13 September 2014
brief update
all is well
still at Navadra swimming and snorkeling. Fresh SE wind today
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still at Navadra swimming and snorkeling. Fresh SE wind today
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Friday 12 September 2014
brief update
Coordinates: 17 27.449 S 177 02.762 E
a good sail to windward in 15 to 20 knots to Navadra Island where we are now anchored . We have just come back from the shore on this uninhabited tropical island with beautiful sandy beaches. There is good snorkeling to be had over the coral - a great spot.
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a good sail to windward in 15 to 20 knots to Navadra Island where we are now anchored . We have just come back from the shore on this uninhabited tropical island with beautiful sandy beaches. There is good snorkeling to be had over the coral - a great spot.
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Thursday 11 September 2014
Vunuya Island Village
Coordinates:17 35.84S 177 04.11E
All is well . We left Malolo Island at 9 am under motor expecting the wind to come in as forecast but unfortunately it did not !
We motored under a hot sun for ages ( which I do not enjoy ) until we reached Vunuya Island and anchored off the village in 10 metres.
Locals were busy fishing , smoke rose from the cooking fires, children played on the beach and it all looked pretty tranquil.
Tim and I rowed in to visit the chief and ask his permission to anchor in their bay. We were met by one of the elders named Suli who was most hospitable , and explained that the chief had died and as yet a new one had not been appointed.
He took us on tour of the village and was particularly proud of the large number of houses now having solar panels for lights, TV and at the school now a number of computers. He invited us for milky fijian tea at his house.
We gave him the Yaqona we had brought for the chief. These are dried roots which are ground to make the kava drink. We also had brought in a football for the children. It was a most interesting visit particularly as he spoke perfect English ( like many Fijians ) as he had worked in some of the resorts and had learned English at school when young. English is still taught in all schools here.
Don
Ps I made a mistakes over the last two days when writing the coordinates in the blog. Sorry if it caused confusion.
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All is well . We left Malolo Island at 9 am under motor expecting the wind to come in as forecast but unfortunately it did not !
We motored under a hot sun for ages ( which I do not enjoy ) until we reached Vunuya Island and anchored off the village in 10 metres.
Locals were busy fishing , smoke rose from the cooking fires, children played on the beach and it all looked pretty tranquil.
Tim and I rowed in to visit the chief and ask his permission to anchor in their bay. We were met by one of the elders named Suli who was most hospitable , and explained that the chief had died and as yet a new one had not been appointed.
He took us on tour of the village and was particularly proud of the large number of houses now having solar panels for lights, TV and at the school now a number of computers. He invited us for milky fijian tea at his house.
We gave him the Yaqona we had brought for the chief. These are dried roots which are ground to make the kava drink. We also had brought in a football for the children. It was a most interesting visit particularly as he spoke perfect English ( like many Fijians ) as he had worked in some of the resorts and had learned English at school when young. English is still taught in all schools here.
Don
Ps I made a mistakes over the last two days when writing the coordinates in the blog. Sorry if it caused confusion.
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Wednesday 10 September 2014
Brief update
Having a relaxing day still at Liku Liku Bay . I have tended to a few chores like greasing the sheet winches - there is always something that needs checking, it is hard work this cruising life! Light rain for a while but generally ok. Ginger banana fritters for lunch , the usual problem all the bananas become ripe at once ! All the crew are currently off having a roam about on shore - must keep cabin fever at bay !
Don
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Don
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Tuesday 9 September 2014
departed Denerau
Coordinates: 17 19.662 S 178 40.94 E
Crew health: excellent
Fish caught: none but only fished a short time
At lunch time today after an easy sail with very light winds ( down to 2 knots at times) we managed to nearly sail all the way to Liku Liku bay on the North west corner of Malolo Island. We challenged ourselves not to motor and nearly made it ! We collected son Tim and his fiancee Joce from Nadi Airport 2 days ago and we had a good time catching up on all their news. Yesterday we all rushed around stocking up mainly on fruit and vegetables in Nadi market.
Denerau proved a good stop over and all the usual chores like topping up with diesel, water and washing were done.
We even watched the All Black game last weekend at Cardo's Cafe.
Denerau is a busy little port and yachts are coming and going along with many ferry and tourist excursion boats. Some massive super yachts were in port too.
What a contrast to be at anchor at Malolo Island. We are off the beach of the exclusive Liku Liku Lagoon resort .. reported to be amongst the twenty best escapes from the busy world. We are here not because of the resort but it was just a convenient place to shelter from the prevailng wind - however,of course, we have the same fantastic views and crystal clear water for free.
We may stay in this area for a couple of days before moving on. It is good to have the extra crew , and Tim is enjoying being busy adjusting sails and getting the best from katipo.
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Crew health: excellent
Fish caught: none but only fished a short time
At lunch time today after an easy sail with very light winds ( down to 2 knots at times) we managed to nearly sail all the way to Liku Liku bay on the North west corner of Malolo Island. We challenged ourselves not to motor and nearly made it ! We collected son Tim and his fiancee Joce from Nadi Airport 2 days ago and we had a good time catching up on all their news. Yesterday we all rushed around stocking up mainly on fruit and vegetables in Nadi market.
Denerau proved a good stop over and all the usual chores like topping up with diesel, water and washing were done.
We even watched the All Black game last weekend at Cardo's Cafe.
Denerau is a busy little port and yachts are coming and going along with many ferry and tourist excursion boats. Some massive super yachts were in port too.
What a contrast to be at anchor at Malolo Island. We are off the beach of the exclusive Liku Liku Lagoon resort .. reported to be amongst the twenty best escapes from the busy world. We are here not because of the resort but it was just a convenient place to shelter from the prevailng wind - however,of course, we have the same fantastic views and crystal clear water for free.
We may stay in this area for a couple of days before moving on. It is good to have the extra crew , and Tim is enjoying being busy adjusting sails and getting the best from katipo.
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Thursday 4 September 2014
arrive Lautoka
Coordinates: 17 35.56S 177 34.09 E
Crew health: excellent
We sailed off the anchor from Vatia Wharf at 8 am with a light 5 knot breeze, but like yesterday the wind rose as the day heated up and it was soon blowing 25 knots from the ENE.
We have had another great day with blue skies and bright sun as we cruised along the reef margins and past low mangrove belts at the shore's edge, with a backdrop of dry hill sides often with burned off areas. Herons occasionally flew over head. This part of Fiji seems relatively uninhabited although we saw a few small boats with Fijians fishing along the reef margins.
We sailed into the bay off Lautoka and anchored in the lee of Bekana Island just after lunch time. It is hot and humid and the temperature in the cabin as I write is 29 degrees C.
Tomorrow we will sail the short distance of about ten miles to Denerau Harbour. This is a busy place with moorings and a small marina, with ferries coming and going out to the resort Islands. There are good facilities and supplies here although a short bus ride into the small town of Nadi is interesting and there are many bargains to be had also a great fruit and vegetable market.
Our son Tim and his fiance Joce fly into Nadi from NZ in three days time to come sailing with us for a couple of weeks .
I will write the next blog after the weekend when we start sailing with them hopefully to the Mamanuca and Yasawa islands.
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Crew health: excellent
We sailed off the anchor from Vatia Wharf at 8 am with a light 5 knot breeze, but like yesterday the wind rose as the day heated up and it was soon blowing 25 knots from the ENE.
We have had another great day with blue skies and bright sun as we cruised along the reef margins and past low mangrove belts at the shore's edge, with a backdrop of dry hill sides often with burned off areas. Herons occasionally flew over head. This part of Fiji seems relatively uninhabited although we saw a few small boats with Fijians fishing along the reef margins.
We sailed into the bay off Lautoka and anchored in the lee of Bekana Island just after lunch time. It is hot and humid and the temperature in the cabin as I write is 29 degrees C.
Tomorrow we will sail the short distance of about ten miles to Denerau Harbour. This is a busy place with moorings and a small marina, with ferries coming and going out to the resort Islands. There are good facilities and supplies here although a short bus ride into the small town of Nadi is interesting and there are many bargains to be had also a great fruit and vegetable market.
Our son Tim and his fiance Joce fly into Nadi from NZ in three days time to come sailing with us for a couple of weeks .
I will write the next blog after the weekend when we start sailing with them hopefully to the Mamanuca and Yasawa islands.
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Wednesday 3 September 2014
Lazy day Arrive at Vatia Wharf
Coordinates:17 24.37S 177 45.18 E
A lazy, easy day today . Left Malake island at 9.30 am and with a wind aft of the beam of up to 27 knots and with minimal sail up ambled along admiring the fairly dry scenery on the nearby shore to port while keeping a close eye on the reefs both to starboard and port. While we glided downwind we felt sorry for the three other boats we passed going in the opposite direction, all labouring to windward under noisy engine power only. In fact it seems many cruisers seem to motor more than sail !
We sailed past Vatia Wharf and dropped anchor under sail in 10 metres in the lee of the nearby land at 2.30pm
Incidently the Mahi mahi for dinner last night was delicious . It must be one of the best fish to eat. Snapper is not even close !
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A lazy, easy day today . Left Malake island at 9.30 am and with a wind aft of the beam of up to 27 knots and with minimal sail up ambled along admiring the fairly dry scenery on the nearby shore to port while keeping a close eye on the reefs both to starboard and port. While we glided downwind we felt sorry for the three other boats we passed going in the opposite direction, all labouring to windward under noisy engine power only. In fact it seems many cruisers seem to motor more than sail !
We sailed past Vatia Wharf and dropped anchor under sail in 10 metres in the lee of the nearby land at 2.30pm
Incidently the Mahi mahi for dinner last night was delicious . It must be one of the best fish to eat. Snapper is not even close !
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Tuesday 2 September 2014
Reached Viti Levu
Coordinates: 17 19.462 178 87.788 E
Crew health: Great
Fish caught: one Mahimahi
We have just anchored off Malake Island on the north side of Viti Levu
We had a pleasant sail from Cocoanut Point today , steady SE wind and quite a fast sail after an early start. The last part of our sail was in through the reef on the north of Viti Levu. Some of the markers on the reefs were missing , they are often damaged by cyclones or just rust and decay .
I used my new "guaranted" lure, purchased in Savu savu, today and caught a mahi mahi , not too large to keep to eat . If it had been a large one I would have set it free.
Tomorrow we will travel further along this 'inland 'passage between the shore and and the off lying reef towards Lautoka.
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Crew health: Great
Fish caught: one Mahimahi
We have just anchored off Malake Island on the north side of Viti Levu
We had a pleasant sail from Cocoanut Point today , steady SE wind and quite a fast sail after an early start. The last part of our sail was in through the reef on the north of Viti Levu. Some of the markers on the reefs were missing , they are often damaged by cyclones or just rust and decay .
I used my new "guaranted" lure, purchased in Savu savu, today and caught a mahi mahi , not too large to keep to eat . If it had been a large one I would have set it free.
Tomorrow we will travel further along this 'inland 'passage between the shore and and the off lying reef towards Lautoka.
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Monday 1 September 2014
There is a first time for everything !
Coordinates:16 59.64 S 178 40.94 E
Crew health: great
At anchor at Cocoanut Point near Nabouwalu village
We were up and away from Savusavu at 6.30 this morning to sail all day in light winds . We dropped anchor at 4.45 pm
Nasonisoni Passage was the only coral pass today , quite long but reasonably wide, so not bad.
We had been in Savusavu Fiji for 6 days and had a great time, met some interesting new people amongst the cruising folk, and a couple we had last seen in Samoa three years ago. We bought a fishing lure from Curly Carswell a local character who lives on his boat here - he guaranteed success!
We stocked up on fresh fruit and vegetables which are very good and also very cheap and had some tasty Indian meals out. We found two excellent bakeries and rediscovered coconut scrolls.
We met a friend from the Bay of Islands NZ who was moored further up the harbour. We had no idea he was in Fiji so that was a pleasant surprise. Wayne used to own a 38 foot Wharram catamaran but currently has an elegant 37 foot keeler.
The winds have been unusually strong of late for this time of year and many boats had been waiting since before we arrived here to move on. It seems like there will be lighter winds now for a while.
Last evening Denise had a bit of a surprise when she went into the marine toilet section of the boat . There, lazily swimming around in the water in the toilet bowl, was a moderate sized fish. It must have come up the sea water inlet pipe when the toilet had last been flushed. We gave the fish a gentle flush out into the sea again having wished it luck. As I said above there is a first time for everything - I have never seen that happen before !
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Crew health: great
At anchor at Cocoanut Point near Nabouwalu village
We were up and away from Savusavu at 6.30 this morning to sail all day in light winds . We dropped anchor at 4.45 pm
Nasonisoni Passage was the only coral pass today , quite long but reasonably wide, so not bad.
We had been in Savusavu Fiji for 6 days and had a great time, met some interesting new people amongst the cruising folk, and a couple we had last seen in Samoa three years ago. We bought a fishing lure from Curly Carswell a local character who lives on his boat here - he guaranteed success!
We stocked up on fresh fruit and vegetables which are very good and also very cheap and had some tasty Indian meals out. We found two excellent bakeries and rediscovered coconut scrolls.
We met a friend from the Bay of Islands NZ who was moored further up the harbour. We had no idea he was in Fiji so that was a pleasant surprise. Wayne used to own a 38 foot Wharram catamaran but currently has an elegant 37 foot keeler.
The winds have been unusually strong of late for this time of year and many boats had been waiting since before we arrived here to move on. It seems like there will be lighter winds now for a while.
Last evening Denise had a bit of a surprise when she went into the marine toilet section of the boat . There, lazily swimming around in the water in the toilet bowl, was a moderate sized fish. It must have come up the sea water inlet pipe when the toilet had last been flushed. We gave the fish a gentle flush out into the sea again having wished it luck. As I said above there is a first time for everything - I have never seen that happen before !
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